The T….Wait KE70? What now??

I had started out this build with the intentions of doing the TE71, quad round lights(early version). Well all I can say is, it doesn’t look good if you follow the instructions. But before I get to the issue at hand. A few pics of some details of the interior.

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I got as far as working on the grill, I stripped the chrome off and painted it metallic black. I added BMF for the lights, painted a pair of them yellow for fog lights and glued the lights on as well. I thought I can just ignore the fact that the corner lights area doesn’t look right. If I hadn’t painted it black, the chrome would stick out like a sore thumb. Maybe painting it the body color then it would be ok..nah not in my mind.

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So I dug out the other option, the square lights with matching grill. Which the lights themselves needed work done.

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Once I got done with the front, I continued on with the rest of the build. With not much left but to glue parts on, I had finally finished the now TE71 late version.

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Although I wanted to call it quits with this body and start with a new one, but I am glad I didn’t.
I have several of these Aoshima Corolla kits and I will build them to proper specs from now on.

Thank you for passing by.

-Luis

The wheel inventory

We have all wondered what wheel will suit a project build and frankly it can be a pain. We have received quite a number of requests for wheels and whats available so we have complied a wheel inventory list to help you guys. The list may get quite extensive so it will be split over a few posts but we will do our best.

 

Also we will require any help in the form of information or pictures as we do not have all.

 

First up is the Aoshima AWC Stell Daytona

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Aoshima Veilside

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Aoshima Koenig

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I could be wrong but these looks like an Aoshima wheel from a skyline series. Looks like a 400r style wheel

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Fujimi regamasters

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Fujimi LMGT-2 ( Elliot Plumb)

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Recast Aoshima re30

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Aoshima te37 19”

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Recast Aoshima watanabe. These were a special wheel on a Japanese over fender series.

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Aoshima ssr long champs

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Recast Aoshima hayashi

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Arii mesh wheel

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Recast Zender wheels from the Revell Corrado zender

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Fujimi Volk mesh

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Eightyone Rotiform DIA

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Eightyone Rotiform LHR

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Eightyone Rotiform BLQ

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Aoshima bbs Lm deep dish

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Aoshima Advan racing RS

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Tamiya O.Z with extra dishes

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Tamiya Ferrari f40 wheels also know as Autostrada Modena

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Recast Aoshima te37 v

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Fujmi te37

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Fujimi bmw bottlecaps

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Studio 27 Aluminium mesh

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Aoshima Work Equip

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Tamiya Jaguar xj220 wheels

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Tamiya ssr wheel ( unknow name)

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Aoshima dupond, unsure on size possibly 16″ to 18″, Female polycap fitment, regular road tyres ( JJ Fleming)

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Fujimi BBS LM 18″, Female polycap fitment, staggered fitment( JJ Fleming)

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Fujimi TOM’S Rally, 15″ Female rod fitment off road tyres (JJ Fleming)

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Fujimi BBS V-SPEC 17″, Female polycap fitment, regular road tyres ( JJ Fleming)

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Aoshima 19″ Avdan Racing RS-DF ( Dave Damrow)

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Aoshima 17″ Impul RS ( Dave Damrow)

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Fujimi 17″ OZ Racing Wheels ( Dave Damrow)

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Polishing a car

This has been coming on for some time now. I just had to find the right car to do it with, so when I got my 1/12 Tamiya Mini I thought it would be the perfect candidate.  Now before I begin, this is just my way of doing things. I am in no way saying this is the best way of doing it, but so far its been working for me. If anyone has any other suggestions please do forward them .

So before I begin, I spray my cars with 2k automotive clears and paints. This is much harder wearing paints and require a bit more polishing than Tamiya.

What I use is 2000 and 3000 automotive sandpaper. I have also tried a few compounds and so far I found that Chemical Guys and Meguiars work the best. The most important item on the list is the Dremel polishing wheel. I use it only on the first speed, but be cautious about keeping it on one place for a long time as it heats up the plastic and may melt it.

 

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So this is what the body looked like straight after the clear. As you can see there was a fair bit of orange peel once it settled. This was caused by a change in temperature while clearing and not in a controlled environment.

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When sanding the body start with 2000 paper with water. Below are some pictures of what it should look like once done with the 2000 grit paper.

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In this picture below it shows that the sanding was not done correctly. It should be an even coat ( as above) in order to make sure the final finish looks good.

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The picture below shows the body done with 3000 grit. As you can see there are signs of the reflections coming through. One way to check if you are on the right track is to wet the areas with water from time to time.

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Here it seems as though I used quite a bit of polish however this was just one finger tip that was spread over the area I wanted to polish. I find it better to focus on one area at a time .

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A tip when using the Dremel. I put some masking tape over the chuck as the polishing lop can bite and you don’t want this rough edge damaging your new paint job.

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This is after the first layer of Chemical Guys rough compound. I prefer to do two coats of the rough and medium polishes.

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And after Meguiars scratch x. The lines left are just from the mop and will be wiped away after the final layer.

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Once the scratch x was done I wiped the body down with Meguiars Carnauba wax. For the best results use a micro fibre cloth.

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Here are some final pictures of the entire body.

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So I hope that this has helped some as its been a frequently asked question.

Raees